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When fresh wide rice noodles are stir-fried, they are called fun. Fresh rice noodles have to be pulled apart and fluffed before cooking.

Serves 4 as part of a multicourse meal.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 pound fresh or dried flat rice noodles (about 1/2 inch wide)for the marinade
• 1/2 tablespoon soy sauce or light soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon chinese rice wine or dry sherry
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
• 1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper1/4 pound shrimpfor the seasonings
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce or 1 tablespoon each light and dark soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon chili garlic sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar1 tablespoon vegetable oil1/2 yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 3 green onions, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 teaspoon minced ginger
• 1 cup bean sprouts1/4 cup roasted peanuts

DIRECTIONS 1. If using dried rice noodles, pour enough warm water over them in a medium bowl to cover completely. Let soak until softened, about 30 minutes. Drain thoroughly. If using fresh rice noodles, run under warm water and separate strands.

2. Marinate the shrimp: Stir the soy sauce, rice wine, garlic, cornstarch, and pepper together in a bowl until the cornstarch is dissolved. Toss the shrimp gently in the marinade until coated. Let stand for 10 minutes.

3. Prepare the seasonings: Stir the soy sauce, chili garlic sauce, and sugar together in a bowl until the sugar is dissolved.

4. Heat a wok over high heat until hot. Add the oil and swirl to coat the sides. Add the soaked or fresh rice noodles and stir-fry until the noodles are lightly browned along the edges, about 2 minutes. Scoop the noodles onto a plate and set aside.

5. Add the shrimp to the wok and stir-fry until no longer pink, about 2 minutes. Add both onions and the ginger and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Slide the noodles into the wok, scatter the bean sprouts over them, and pour in the seasonings. Toss until the mixture is heated through and the chicken is coated evenly with the seasonings, about 3 minutes.

6. Stir in the peanuts, scoop the contents of the wok onto a warm serving plate, and serve.

If you’d like to serve a sauce alongside, strain 1/4 cup of the cooled pickling liquid, and whisk it with 1 cup of mayonnaise. For ease, the shrimp are left unpeeled; if you peel them before cooking, leave the tails on.

Makes 8 servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 2 1/4cups water
• 3tablespoons rice vinegar
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh lemongrass*
• 1 1/2tablespoons pickling spice
• 1tablespoon salt
• 1teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• 2pounds uncooked medium shrimp, unpeeled, rinsed
• 1/2cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
• 4small green onions, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
• 3tablespoons minced pickled ginger,* 2 tablespoons ginger brine reserved

DIRECTIONS Place first 6 ingredients in medium pot. Add shrimp. Cover; bring to boil. Uncover and boil until shrimp are just cooked through, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in 1/2 cup chopped cilantro, green onions, pickled ginger, and ginger brine. Cool 1 hour. Chill uncovered until cold, then cover and chill at least 4 hours and up to 1 day.Using slotted spoon, transfer shrimp to medium bowl. Sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons cilantro.*Available at Asian markets, specialty foods stores and some supermarkets.

Ginger and sesame lend an Asian accent.

Makes 4 servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 3tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2teaspoons minced fresh ginger
• 1/4teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
• 16uncooked jumbo shrimp, peeled, deveined3tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 2tablespoons soy sauce
• 3cups cooked short-grain brown rice (about 1 1/4 cups uncooked)
• 1mango, peeled, pitted, chopped
• 4green onions, thinly sliced8ounces sugar snap peas
• 1teaspoon oriental sesame oil
• 1teaspoon sesame seeds410- to 12-inch metal skewers

DIRECTIONS Whisk 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, 1 teaspoon ginger, and crushed red pepper inbowl. Add shrimp; toss. Chill 2 hours.

Whisk 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, 1 teaspoon ginger, lime juice, and soy sauce in another bowl. Add rice, mango, and onions; toss well. Cover rice salad; let stand at room temperature.

Boil sugar snap peas in salted water until crisp-tender, about 1 minute. Drain peas and transfer to medium bowl. Toss peas with sesame oil and sesame seeds.

Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Thread 4 shrimp onto each of 4 skewers. Grill shrimp until just opaque in center, about 2 minutes per side.

Mound rice and mango salad in center of large platter; surround with sesame sugar snap peas. Top with grilled shrimp skewers and serve.

Makes 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 24uncooked jumbo shrimp (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled, deveined, tails left intact
• 1/3cup cornstarch
• 3/4teaspoon salt
• 1/2teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2cups sweetened shredded coconut
• 3large egg whites
• vegetable oil (for deep-frying)
• pineapple-apricot salsa

DIRECTIONS Using small sharp knife and starting at top of inward curve just below tail, butterfly shrimp, cutting each more than halfway through toward outward curve (do not cut shrimp in two). Open each shrimp (as for book) and press slightly to flatten. Mix cornstarch, salt and cayenne in medium bowl. Place coconut in pie dish. Beat egg whites in another medium bowl until frothy. Dredge shrimp in cornstarch mixture; shake off excess. Dip shrimp into egg whites, then press shrimp into coconut; turn shrimp over and press into coconut again to coat both sides.
Pour enough oil into heavy large pot to reach depth of 2 inches; heat to 350°F. Working in batches, add shrimp to hot oil; deep-fry until cooked through, about 1 minute. Using tongs or slotted spoon, transfer shrimp to paper towels to drain. Arrange shrimp on platter. Serve with Pineapple-Apricot Salsa for dipping.

The classic — and amazingly easy — French sauce made with butter and wine gets a glamorous makeover with Champagne. Feel free to use less-expensive sparkling wine for cooking, but keep the blanc de blancs flowing as an accompaniment.

Makes 8 first-course servings.

INGREDIENTS

• sauce base
• 2cups champagne or other dry sparkling wine
• 1/3cup finely chopped shallots
• 2tablespoons champagne vinegar or other white wine vinegar
• 1/4teaspoon whole black peppercornsshrimp
• 1cup champagne or other dry sparkling wine
• 1/4cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 3tablespoons minced shallots
• 1/2teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 24extra-large uncooked shrimp (about 2 pounds), peeled with tail left intact, deveined
• 1tablespoon minced fresh chives
• 1tablespoon minced fresh tarragon
• 1tablespoon minced fresh parsleynonstick vegetable oil spray1cup (2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 16 pieces

DIRECTIONS For sauce base:
Combine Champagne, shallots, vinegar, and peppercorns in heavy medium saucepan. Boil until reduced to 1/4 cup liquid, about 20 minutes. (Can be made 4 hours ahead. Cover and let stand at room temperature.)

For shrimp:
Combine Champagne, olive oil, shallots, and ground pepper in resealable plastic bag. Add shrimp to bag and seal; shake bag to coat shrimp evenly. Marinate shrimp at room temperature at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour, turning bag occasionally. Mix chives, tarragon, and parsley in small bowl.

Preheat broiler. Spray broiler pan with nonstick vegetable oil spray. Drain shrimp; discard plastic bag with marinade. Arrange shrimp on prepared pan in single layer. Broil shrimp until just opaque in center, about 2 minutes per side. Stand 3 shrimp, tails upright, in center of each plate.

Rewarm sauce base over medium-low heat. Whisk in butter 1 piece at a time, just allowing each to melt before adding next (do not boil or sauce will separate). Season beurre blanc to taste with salt and pepper.

Spoon warm sauce around shrimp. Sprinkle with fresh herbs and serve.

Market tip: Champagne and sparkling wines labeled extra dry are actually slightly sweeter than those labeled brut. The latter works best for this dish.