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It’s worth seeking out Carnaroli rice (from the Piedmont region of Italy) for this recipe: Carnaroli has a higher starch content than Arborio, so it makes a much creamier risotto. Chef Kiffin serves this with braised oxtails and a watercress salad.

Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 5 hr (includes making stock)

Makes 6 main-course servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 1medium leek (white and pale green parts only), finely chopped
• 1medium head cauliflower (2 lb), cut into 1-inch-wide florets
• 3 1/2cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth (28 fl oz)
• 1 1/2cups water
• 3tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1cup carnaroli rice* (6 3/4 oz)
• 1 1/2oz finely grated parmigiano-reggiano (3/4 cup)

DIRECTIONS Wash leek well in a bowl of cold water, then lift out and drain. Blanch leek and cauliflower in a 4- to 5-quart pot of boiling salted water, uncovered, 1 minute. Drain in a sieve and transfer to a bowl of cold water to stop cooking. Drain well.

Bring stock and water to a boil in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan and keep stock at a bare simmer, covered.

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a 4-quart heavy pot over moderately high heat until foam subsides, then sauté cauliflower and leek, stirring, 2 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add 1 cup simmering stock and cook at a strong simmer, stirring, until absorbed, about 2 minutes. Continue simmering and adding stock, about 1/2 cup at a time, stirring frequently and letting each addition be absorbed before adding the next, until rice is just tender and creamy looking, 20 to 25 minutes. (There may be leftover broth.)

Remove from heat and stir in cheese, remaining tablespoon butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Thin with a little remaining stock as desired and serve immediately.

*Available at Italian markets, some specialty foods shops, and www.esperya.com.

This recipe is an accompaniment for Grilled Beef Tenderloin with Roasted Garlic Sauce.

Makes about 2 3/4 cups.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 1/2cups quinoa*
• 2cups water
• 1/2teaspoon salt1tablespoon butter
• 2cups finely chopped leeks (white and pale green parts only)
• 1/4cup low-salt chicken broth
• 3tablespoons olive oil
• 2medium-size yellow tomatoes, seeded, chopped
• 3tablespoons chopped green onions
• 3tablespoons chopped fresh basil
• 1tablespoon fresh lemon juice

DIRECTIONS Place quinoa in strainer. Rinse under cold running water until water runs clear; drain. Mix quinoa, 2 cups water, and salt in heavy medium saucepan. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until quinoa is just tender and almost all water is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Drain. Set aside. (Quinoa can be made 1 day ahead. Cool, then cover; chill.)

Melt butter in large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add leeks; sauté until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add broth. Cover; simmer until leeks are tender, about 5 minutes. Add quinoa and oil; stir until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, onions, basil, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.

*A tiny, bead-shaped, ivory-colored grain available at natural foods stores.

Lindsay McDougal of Corona, California, writes: “When my husband and I first moved to Southern California from a small town between Edinburgh and Glasgow, we were amazed by the variety of foods available. It’s almost unfair to compare the two places, since there are so many different ethnic cuisines here. We’ve come to love Mexican and Italian cooking, but we still find ourselves yearning for the traditional Scottish recipes we grew up with, like Scotch eggs and meat and potato pies. They’re hearty dishes and so easy to make. “

A variation of the popular Scottish snack Forfar bridies, these meat-filled turnovers are similar to Cornish pasties. They make a great lunch, but also can be cut into wedges and served as an appetizer.

Makes 8.

INGREDIENTS

• 3tablespoons butter, divided
• 26-ounce beef tenderloin steaks (each about 1 inch thick) 1 3/4cups 1/3-inch cubes peeled red-skinned potatoes (10 to 12 ounces)
• 1 1/2cups chopped leeks (white and pale green parts only; about 2 medium)
• 1/2teaspoon dry mustard
• 1tablespoon steak sauce
• 2large green onions, chopped4refrigerated pie crusts (two 15-ounce packages), room temperature
• 1egg, beaten to blend (for glaze)

DIRECTIONS Melt 1 tablespoon butter in medium skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle steaks with salt and pepper. Add steaks to skillet and cook until medium-rare, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer steaks to plate. Cut steaks into 1/2-inch cubes.

Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in same skillet. Add potatoes, leeks, and dry mustard. Stir 1 minute. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook until potatoes are tender, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes. Return beef and any accumulated juices to skillet. Add steak sauce and sauté 2 minutes. Remove skillet from heat. Mix in green onions. Season filling to taste with salt and pepper. Cool completely.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Unfold crusts on work surface. Cut each crust into 2 pieces along center fold. Brush dough with egg. Place 1/2 cup filling on half of each piece. Fold plain dough over filling; seal edges. Brush pies with more egg; arrange on 2 baking sheets.

Bake pies 15 minutes. Reverse sheets. Bake until crust is golden and filling is heated through, about 10 minutes.

A leek puree adds rich flavor. This side dish is especially good with the Brisket with Dried Apricots, Prunes, and Aromatic Spices recipe.

Makes about 36.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 1/2pounds russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch pieces4cups chopped leeks (white and pale green parts only; from 4 large)
• 1 1/2cups canned low-salt chicken broth
• 2cups matzo meal
• 1/3cup olive oil
• 3/4teaspoon ground black pepper
• 6large eggs
• 1tablespoon salt

DIRECTIONS Steam potatoes until very tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer potatoes to large bowl and mash well.

Combine 2 cups leeks and broth in heavy medium saucepan; bring to boil over medium-high heat. Cover and cook until leeks are tender, about 5 minutes. Uncover and boil until mixture is reduced to scant 1 1/4 cups, about 7 minutes. Transfer to processor and blend until smooth. Add to mashed potatoes. Add matzo meal, oil, and pepper and blend very well. Using electric mixer, beat eggs, and salt in medium bowl until thick, about 8 minutes. Fold egg mixture into potato mixture in 3 additions; fold in remaining 2 cups leeks.

Brush 15×10x2-inch glass baking dish generously with olive oil. Bring large pot of salted water to boil. Using wet hands, form 1 rounded tablespoon potato mixture into ball; place on sheet of moistened foil. Make about 17 more and drop into water. Cover tightly, reduce heat to medium and boil until matzo balls are cooked through and tender, about 35 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer matzo balls to prepared dish. Refill water in pot if necessary, add more salt and return to boil. Repeat with remaining potato mixture. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Cool slightly, cover with foil and chill. Steam 10 minutes or bake covered in 350°F oven 25 minutes to rewarm.)

Julia Shure of Albany, California, writes: “This comforting soup has both cream cheese and cheddar, which give it a rich, smooth texture. While it makes an elegant first course, the soup can also be a satisfying meal partnered with a simple salad and some crusty bread.”

Makes 8 first-course or 4 main-course servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 1/4cup (1/2 stick) butter
• 1large leek (white and pale green parts only), thinly sliced
• 1large garlic clove, minced
• 4large potatoes (about2 1/4 pounds), peeled, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2large carrots, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 4cups low-salt chicken broth
• 2tablespoons chopped fresh dill or 1 tablespoon dried3/4cup milk
• 4ounces cream cheese
• 1cup grated sharp cheddar cheese (about 3 ounces)
• chopped fresh parsley (optional)
• additional grated sharp cheddar cheese (optional)

DIRECTIONS Melt butter in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add leek and garlic; sauté until tender but not brown, about 4 minutes. Add potatoes and carrots; sauté 5 minutes longer. Add chicken broth and dill; simmer uncovered until vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat.

Add milk to soup. Transfer half of soup to blender. Add cream cheese and blend until smooth. Return soup to pot. Add 1 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese and stir over low heat until melted. Season soup to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Chill. Bring to simmer before serving.) Transfer to large serving bowl. Garnish soup with chopped fresh parsley and additional grated sharp cheddar cheese, if desired.