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Lavender flowers are decidedly old-fashioned, as is this not-too-rich tea loaf. You can usually find the flowers in a health food store that sells herbs and spices in bulk. Wrap the cakes in cellophane, tie them with purple ribbon, and attach a yellow lemon-shaped tag to the package.

Grinding the almonds in a food processor with a little of the sugar will keep them from turning into nut butter. Used blanched whole almonds or whole almonds with their natural brown skins, depending on the effect you want. Ground unblanched almonds give the cake a homey look, while blanched almonds are less noticeable, emphasizing the flecks of lavender.

Makes 2 loaf cakes.

INGREDIENTS

• 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3/4 cup almonds
• 1 1/2 cups sugar
• finely grated zest and juice of 2 lemons (1/3 to 1/2 cup juice)
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 6 eggs, at room temperature
• 1/2 cup buttermilk
• 2 tablespoons dried lavender flowers

DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour two 8 by 3 3/4 by 2 1/2-inch disposable aluminum loaf pans.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt onto a piece of waxed paper. Set aside.

In a food processor, grind the almonds with 2 tablespoons of the sugar. Set aside.

Combine the remaining sugar and the lemon zest in a mixing bowl. With your hands, rub the lemon zest into the sugar. Add the butter. With a wooden spoon or electric mixer set on medium-high speed, beat for about 3 minutes, or until very light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating for about 30 seconds after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Beat in the lemon juice.

Add half of the flour and beat in on low speed. Add all of the buttermilk, and then the remaining flour, beating on low speed after each addition just until the ingredients are blended.Finally, add the ground almonds and lavender flowers, again mixing just until combined. Spoon the batter into the prepared pans and smooth the tops with the back of a spoon.

Bake for 55 to 60 minutes, until the top is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center of a loaf comes out clean. Remove from the oven, let cool in the pans on a rack for 10 minutes, then turn the cakes out onto the rack to cool.

Wrapped in plastic or aluminum foil, the cakes will keep for 2 to 3 days at room temperature and for up to 3 months in the freezer.

Known as biscuits in the United Kingdom, these rich treats get their chewy-crunchy texture from Scottish pinhead (steel-cut) oats. For a more tender cookie, use old-fashioned oats.

Makes 12.

INGREDIENTS

• 3/4cup all purpose flour
• 1/4cup unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1/2teaspoon baking soda
• 1/4teaspoon salt
• 1/2cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
• 1/2cup sugar
• 1/2teaspoon vanilla extract
• 2tablespoons steel-cut oats
• 1/4cup semisweet chocolate chips

DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter large rimmed baking sheet. Sift first 4 ingredients into medium bowl. Using electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until fluffy. Add sugar and vanilla; beat until blended. Add flour mixture and beat until moist clumps form. Mix in oats with spatula until evenly distributed (dough will be very firm). Add chocolate chips and knead gently to blend.

Using moistened palms, shape 1 generous tablespoon dough into ball. Place on prepared sheet; flatten to 2-inch round. Repeat with remaining dough, spacing rounds about 2 inches apart.

Bake cookies until center is slightly firm and top is cracked, about 14 minutes. Cool on sheet.

Market tip: Old-fashioned oats have been cut, steamed, and flattened with large rollers. Steel-cut oats are not as highly processed and look like tiny pellets. They produce a more al dente result.

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 5 1/2 hr (includes chilling)

Makes 8 servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 2large lemons
• 3cups heavy cream
• about 10 tablespoons turbinado sugar such as sugar in the raw
• 6large egg yolks
• 1/2teaspoon vanillaspecial equipment:8 (4-oz) flameproof ramekins; a small blowtorch

DIRECTIONS Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 325῰F.

Finely grate 2 tablespoons zest from lemons into cream in a 2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan. Stir in 7 tablespoons turbinado sugar and a pinch of salt. Heat mixture over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until almost boiling, then remove from heat.

Lightly beat yolks in a bowl, then gradually whisk in hot cream. Pour custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a quart-size glass measure and stir in vanilla and 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice. Divide among ramekins.

Arrange ramekins in a roasting pan and bake in a water bath until custards are just set around edge but centers wobble when pan is gently shaken, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool custards in water bath 20 minutes, then remove from pan and chill, uncovered, at least 4 hours. (Custards will set completely as they chill.) Sprinkle about 1 teaspoon turbinado sugar evenly over each custard, then move blowtorch flame evenly back and forth close to sugar until sugar is caramelized. Let stand until caramel is hardened, 3 to 5 minutes.

Cooks’ note:
Custards can be chilled, covered with a sheet of plastic wrap after 4 hours, up to 2 days. Very gently blot with paper towels before sprinkling with sugar and caramelizing.

Add french fries, glazed carrots, and a salad of romaine wedges with blue cheese dressing. End with cheesecake and raspberries.

Makes 4 servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 4tablespoons (1/2 stick) chilled butter
• 4filet mignon steaks (each about 4 ounces)1/3cup chopped shallots
• 2/3cup cabernet sauvignon
• 1generous tablespoon drained capers
• 1tablespoon dijon mustard
• 1/3cup chopped fresh parsley

DIRECTIONS Melt 1 tablespoon butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle both sides of steaks with salt and generous amount of ground black pepper. Add to skillet and cook to desired doneness, about 4 minutes per side for medium. Transfer steaks to 4 plates. Tent with foil.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in same skillet over medium-high heat. Add shallots; sauté 1 minute. Add wine, capers, and mustard; simmer until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in parsley. Reduce heat to medium-low. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Season sauce with salt and pepper. Spoon over steaks.

Portobellos make this simple dish shine. It’s from Alfred Portale’s
12 Seasons Cookbook written with Andrew Friedman (Broadway Books).

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 45 min

Makes 4 servings.

INGREDIENTS

• for portobello vinaigrette
• 1lb portobello mushrooms, stems discarded and caps sliced 1/2 inch thick
• 1/4cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1cup reduced-sodiumchicken broth
• 1tablespoon sherry vinegar or rice vinegar (not seasoned)
• 1tablespoon balsamic vinegar
• 1tablespoon minced shallot
• 1/4teaspoon minced garlic
• 3/4teaspoon kosher salt
  for steamed spinach
• 2cups water
• 1 1/2lb baby spinach
• 2tablespoons unsalted butter
  for halibut
• 4(1 1/4-inch-thick) pieces halibut fillet (1 1/2 lb total), skinned
• 2tablespoons extra-virginolive oil

DIRECTIONS Prepare mushrooms and vinaigrette:
Cook mushrooms in 1 tablespoonoil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about5 minutes. Add broth and simmeruntil mushrooms are tender,about 5 minutes.

Transfer mushrooms with a slotted spoon to a plate and keep warm, covered. Boil liquid in skillet until reduced to about 1/3 cup. Transferto a bowl and cool. Whisk inremaining oil, remaining vinaigrette ingredients, and pepper to taste.

Steam spinach:
Bring water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add half of spinach and cook, covered, until leaves are wilted,1 to 2 minutes. Stir in remaining spinach and cook, covered, until tender,about 2 minutes more. Drain wellin a colander, pressing on spinach witha large spoon. Return spinach to pan and stir in butter and salt and pepperto taste. Keep warm, covered.

Prepare halibut:
Pat halibut dry and season with salt and pepper.

Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, thencook fish until golden, about 3 to 4 minutes on each side.

Arrange halibut, spinach, and mushrooms on 4 large plates or bowls. Spoon vinaigrette over each serving.