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This recipe is a yummy one-pot entrée from The Elements of Taste, by Gray Kunz and Peter Kaminsky.

The secret here is browning the meat.

Makes 4 servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 3-pound veal breast
• coarse salt and white pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons corn oil
• 2 large shallots, peeled
• 1 onion, quartered
• 1 leek, split and cleaned
• 12 cloves of garlic, unpeeled
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/3 cup diced celery root
• 4 whole cloves
• 1/2 teaspoon white peppercorns
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2 cabbage, quartered
• 2 cups dry white wine
• 1 1/3 cups apple cider
• 1/3 cup snipped chives

DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat the oven to 250°F. Season the veal with salt and white pepper. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the veal; brown well on all sides. Transfer to a plate.

2. Add the next nine ingredients to the pan and cook, stirring, until the onion begins to brown. Add the cabbage; cook until wilted and browned slightly. Add 1 cup each of the wine and cider. Return veal to the pot. Season with salt, cover and braise in the oven until the meat is very tender, about 2 1/2to 3 hours.

3. Remove the veal and vegetables from the juices and keep warm. Strain and degrease juices; return to the pot. Add remaining wine and cider; bring toa boil. Reduce for 15 minutes to thicken. Adjust seasonings. Return veal to the pot; simmer, basting with sauce until it is syrupy and the meat is nicely glazed.

4. To serve, place vegetables on a platter; slice veal through the bones and place atop. Spoon sauce over all and sprinkle with chives.

Active time: 1 3/4 hr Start to finish: 4 1/4 hr (includes making stock and rouille)

Makes 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 1large leek, green part coarsely chopped and white part cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 5tablespoons olive oil
• 1medium onion, coarsely chopped
• 2celery ribs, coarsely chopped
• 2carrots, coarsely chopped
• 3garlic cloves, smashed
• 1/4teaspoon crumbled saffron threads
• 2bay leaves (not california)
• 1teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes
• 1 1/4lb plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped
• 3tablespoons canned tomato purée
• 2cups dry white wine
• 1 1/2qt white fish stock1(8- to 9-inch) unsliced round or oval pain au levain or sourdough loaf (1 lb), crust discarded
• 2tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1lb skinned white fish fillets such as halibut, snapper,and/or bass,cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1teaspoon salt
• 2cups rouille1tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
• 1tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

DIRECTIONS Make broth: Wash green and white parts of leek separately in a bowl of cold water, then lift out with a slotted spoon and pat dry. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a 6-quart heavy pot over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then cook leek greens, onion, celery, and carrots, stirring, until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add saffron, bay leaves, and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add fresh tomatoes and tomato purée and cook, stirring, 4 minutes. Add wine and simmer, uncovered, until liquid is reduced by about half, about 30 minutes.

Stir in stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 30 minutes. Carefully pour through a fine sieve into a bowl, then discard solids.

Prepare croûtes while broth simmers:
Preheat oven to 300°F.

Heat a well-seasoned ridged grill pan over moderately high heat until hot. Brush bread with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, then grill on all sides until grill marks appear. Tear bread into rough 3-inch pieces and bake on a baking sheet in middle of oven until crisp outside but soft inside, about 10 minutes. Cool croûtes.

Heat butter in a 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat until foam subsides, then cook white part of leek, stirring, until beginning to soften, about 2 minutes. Add fish, hot broth, and salt and bring to a simmer (fish will be cooked through). Remove from heat and stir in 1/2 cup rouille.

Put croûtes in soup plates and ladle soup over. Sprinkle with oreganoand parsley and serve remaining rouille on the side.

Cooks’ note:
• Broth can be made 2 days ahead and cooled, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Reheat broth before adding to white part of leek along with fish and rouille.

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 40 min

Makes 4 main-course servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 1lb penne rigate
• 3/4lb sugar snap peas, trimmed and halved diagonally
• 2/3cup heavy cream
• 1(1/2-lb) whole smoked trout, head, skin, bones, and tail discarded and flesh coarsely flaked
• 1tablespoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
• 1/4cup chopped fresh dill
• 1/2teaspoon salt
• 1/2teaspoon black pepper

DIRECTIONS Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water 2 minutes less than package instructions indicate, then add sugar snaps and cook until sugar snaps are tender, about 2 minutes more. Reserve 1/4 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and sugar snaps in a colander and return to pot.

Boil cream in a 1- to 1 1/2-quart heavy saucepan, uncovered, 2 minutes, then add to pasta along with trout, zest, reserved cooking water, dill, salt, and pepper and toss until combined.

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This lovely side dish is delicious with roast pork or chicken, or grilled sausages or fish.

Market tip: Escarole has a pleasantly mild bitterness and sturdy leaves that hold up well to cooking. Young escarole (available at farmers’ markets) is mellower and makes a wonderful salad green.

Makes 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 3tablespoons dried currants
• 2tablespoons water2pounds escarole, halved lengthwise, cored, cut crosswise into 2-inch-wide strips3tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 4garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 3tablespoons pine nuts, toasted

DIRECTIONS Combine currants and water in small bowl. Let stand 30 minutes. Drain.Transfer currants to medium bowl.

Cook escarole in batches in large pot of boiling water just until wilted, about 2 minutes. Drain; cool under cold running water. Drain again; squeeze to remove excess water. Combine with currants.

Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic; sauté just until beginning to color, about 2 minutes. Add escarole mixture and pine nuts. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sauté until escarole is heated through, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.