Dayrecipe Food Community

Spoon these cherries over ice cream or pound cake, or serve them topped with whipped cream and biscotti.

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 3 hr

Makes 4 servings.

INGREDIENTS

• 1turkish or 1/2 california bay leaf
• 4whole cloves
• 4black peppercorns
• 3(3- by 1/2-inch) strips fresh lemon zest
• 1 1/2cups red zinfandel
• 1/2cup kirsch or other cherry-flavored brandy
• 1/2cup water
• 1/2cup sugar
• 3cups fresh or frozen (not thawed) pitted sour cherries (1 lb)
• 1(3-inch) cinnamon stick
• 1vanilla bean, halved lengthwisespecial equipment:kitchen string; a 4-inch square of cheesecloth; a 1-qt jar with lid

DIRECTIONS Tie bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, and zest together in a cheesecloth bag.

Combine Zinfandel, kirsch, water, sugar, and cheesecloth bag in a 4-quart heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Add fresh or frozen cherries with any juices, cinnamon stick, and vanilla bean and simmer, uncovered, until cherries are tender but still hold their shape, 3 to 4 minutes.

Drain cherries in a sieve set over a bowl. Return cooking liquid to pan along with vanilla bean, cinnamon stick, and cheesecloth bag and boil until reduced to about 1 1/4 cups, about 12 minutes. Cool liquid slightly and discard vanilla bean, cinnamon stick, and cheesecloth bag. Transfer cherries and cooled liquid to jar and chill, covered, at least 2 hours to allow flavors to develop.

Cooks’ note:
• Cherries can be kept in jar, chilled, up to 1 month.

A growing interest in Middle Eastern food, spurred most likely by the vegetarian movement, brought tabbouleh to the attention of many Americans. It was often served as a side dish at health food restaurants.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS

By the seventies, Julia Child, through her books and television shows, had made French food accessible, and the Cuisinart, introduced in 1973, made many of the cuisine’s more complicated techniques quick and simple. As a result, pâté became increasingly popular, and remains so today.

Makes 10 to 12 servings.

INGREDIENTS

Flaming desserts-like this one and crepes suzette-were all the rage at fine dining establishments in the sixties. The title here refers to the sweet cherries, dried cherries and cherry juice-enhanced by vanilla bean and orange peel-that provide such terrific flavor.

Makes 6 servings.

INGREDIENTS

Sephardim enjoy these confections on special occasions, especially Rosh Hashannah and Passover. Almost any fruit can be used in this process, but hard fruits require cooking and dried ones soaking. Although fruit is naturally sweet, the sugar in this recipe contributes additional sweetness and also intensifies the flavors, contributes body (so that the paste can be cut into shapes), and acts as a preservative.

Makes about twenty-nine 1-inch candies.

INGREDIENTS

• about 4 cups fruit pulp (see variations below)
• about 4 cups sugar
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• confectioners’ or granulated sugar for coating (optional)

DIRECTIONS 1. Measure the fruit pulp and place in a heavy medium nonreactive saucepan (do not use iron, copper, or brass). Add 1 cup sugar for each cup of pulp.Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens and sputters, 30 to 50 minutes. Add the lemon juice and cook, stirring for 2 minutes.

2. Spread the fruit paste over a greased 13-by-9-inch baking pan or on a baking sheet to a 1-inch thickness.Let cool, then cut into squares or diamonds. Or form the warm fruit paste into 1-inch balls and, if desired, press a walnut half or blanched almond into each ball. Cover with waxed paper and let stand at room temperature overnight. If desired, dredge the candies in confectioners’ or granulated sugar to coat. This helps to keep the candies from sticking together. Store between sheets of waxed paper in an airtight container at room temperature.

VARIATIONS

Fruit and Almond Candies: Scatter 1 cup ground blanched almonds in a 13-by-9-inch baking pan or on a baking sheet, spread the fruit paste on top, and sprinkle another 1 cup ground almonds over the fruit paste.

Dulce de Mansana (Sephardic Apple Candies): Cook 3 pounds (10 to 12 medium) coarsely chopped tart apples in 1 1/2 cups apple cider or water over medium heat until tender, 20 to 40 minutes. Drain and let cool.Press through a food mill or strainer. Or use 4 cups unsweetened applesauce.

Dulce de Cayeci (Sephardic Apricot Candies): Soak 1 pound (about 3 1/4 cups) dried apricots in water to cover for at least 2 hours or overnight. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the soaking liquid.In a food processor or food mill, purée the apricots. Add the reserved soaking liquid.

Dulce de Moras (Sephardic Berry Candies): Purée and strain 2 pounds (about 7 cups) stemmed blackberries, mulberries, or raspberries. Add 1 cup water.

Amsath (Indian Mango Candies): This Indian adaptation of the Middle Eastern confection is called kamrooden in Calcutta. Use 4 cups strained mango pulp (about 4 pounds or 8 medium mangoes).

Dulce de Shiftili (Sephardic Peach Candies): Halve and pit 2 pounds fresh peaches or apricots. Poach in boiling water for 15 minutes. Drain, peel, and purée. If desired, stir 1 teaspoon almond extract into the thickened paste.

Dulce de Peras (Sephardic Pear Candies): Cook 3 pounds peeled, cored, and chopped pears in 1 1/2 cups water over medium heat until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and let cool. In a food processor or food mill, purée the pulp.

Dulce do Bimbriyo (Sephardic Quince Candies): Among Greek, Syrian, and Iraqi communities, quince preserves (kylthoni glyko) and candied quinces are served on Rosh Hashannah and Passover. Peel and slice 3 pounds (about 8 medium) hard and slightly unripe quinces. Cook in 1 1/2 cups water over medium heat until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and let cool. Mash the pulp and press through a strainer.

Dulce de Bimbriyo y Mansana (Sephardic Quince and Apple Candies): Cook 2 pounds peeled and chopped quinces and 1 pound peeled, cored, and chopped apples in 1 1/2 cups water over medium heat until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and let cool. In a food processor or food mill, purée the pulp.